Summer Rolls Gỏi Cuốn

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Now that summer is officially here and we finally had a nice hot summer’s day, it’s time to make Summer Rolls. They are sometimes called Spring Rolls, although the Spring Rolls are often fried. Summer rolls are made with fresh, raw vegetables, with or without boiled shrimp. Gỏi Cuốn translates literally as salad rolls, which is pretty much what they are: a shrimp salad in a roll. I’ve always loved these for their burst of flavor from the fresh herbs inside heightened by the sweet spiciness of Hoisin (WHO-zjen) sauce and sweet chili sauce.

Cindy with shrimp rollMany thanks to chefs Cindy Hay (pictured above), Wyn Ha and Jenny Inpraseuth; my Southeast Asian colleagues who cheerfully and patiently taught me to make these.

Ingredients:

Asian ingredients are available at most Asian markets and Berkeley Bowl

You can make these Vegetarian/ Vegan with just the salad ingredients (skip the shrimp and just use Hoisin Sauce with a bit of lime juice and peanuts).

Shrimp:

About 2 1/2 cups of medium shrimp. If you buy shrimp in their shells, they make a lovely broth.

3 cups water

1 slice of fresh ginger

3 cloves garlic

1 tsp salt

Hoisin dipping Sauce

Cindy told me that the sauce needs to have sweet, sour and salty flavors:

1 cup bottled Hoisin sauce (tương ăn phở)

1 Tb chopped peanuts

juice from 1/2 lime

Wrap:

1 package rice paper rounds

I shallow bowl or pie pan with warm water

Filling:

You can vary the salad ingredients, but always include mint and basil leaves and rice noodles.

Rice vermicelli noodles (rice sticks)  size medium Jiang Xi Bún Giang Tây.

1 large peeled carrot (or about 8 peeled baby carrots)

3 Persian cucumbers (no need to peel)

1/4 jicama

1 red bell pepper

½ cup cilantro leaves

½ cup mint leaves

¼ cup Thai basil (you can substitute regular basil if you can’t find the more aromatic Thai basil)

4- 6 green leaf leaves lettuce. Use the upper part of the leaves.

1 cup bean sprouts, rinsed and cut in half

chunks of 1 avocado

You can make the shrimp and Hoisin dipping sauce ahead of time.

Defrost shrimp in a colander under cold running water for 7 minutes. While shrimp is defrosting, fill a medium pot with 3 cups water and add 1 tsp of salt, ginger and garlic, and bring to a boil. Bring shrimp to boil over high heat, then boil for 3 minutes. Drain shrimp into a salad spinner or over a sieve into a bowl, reserving cooking liquid. Pour the liquid back into the pot. Cool shrimp until you are able to handle them. Peel the shrimp and cut in half lengthwise. Return the shells into the reserved liquid. Boil the shrimp shells, garlic and ginger uncovered for 10 minutes until reduced. Pour over a sieve and set aside to cool.

Making the Hoisin dipping sauce:

DSC00591Combine ¼ cup reserved shrimp broth with Hoisin sauce. Top with crushed peanuts.

Prepare the noodles:

Boil 12 cups water in a a saucepan. Break off about 4 oz  rice vermicelli noodles, also called rice sticks – Jiang Xi Bún Giang Tây (about 1/4 of a 14 oz package). Be sure they are size medium, not the very thin vermicelli.

rice sticks bun giang tay

Cook the noodles for 6 -8 minutes in boiling water, stirring occasionally.

DSC00596Cool them by rinsing them in a sieve under cold water for one minute. Stir and separate the noodles with a fork or chopstick so that they don’t clump up. Let them drain over a bowl.

Salad Filling:

DSC00894Cut the vegetables very thin and small, especially hard veggies like carrots and jicama.

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I use a special Asian vegetable shaver to shave thin slices of carrots, cucumber and jicama. Halve the bean sprouts so they don’t poke through the rice paper. Tear herbs into small leaves.

Assembly:

Summer rolls are not too hard to make, but the trick is in rolling the sticky rice paper. It comes in a hard, almost plastic-like wafer.

3 ladies rice paperI couldn’t believe it was the same thing as the soft wrapper. Magically it transforms when dipped in warm water. It softens and becomes thinner and pliable. If you dip it flat, it wants to curl up.

The trick is to hold it by the edges and rotate it through the water, then give it a quick dip in the water to wet the middle.  The whole process should take about 5 seconds. If it stays too long in the water it will become too thin and tear easily, and stick to itself.

dipping rice paper

Place the rice paper on a dry plate. It will soften within seconds.

DSC00601Put a lettuce leaf and a tablespoon of noodles first to add a cushion for the vegetables.

DSC00625Then add a few vegetables, and a few mint, basil and cilantro leaves. Avoid over-stuffing the roll. I got excited by all the wonderful ingredients and wanted to add it all in as much as possible. My rolls became bulky and torn. Moderation in all things I remind myself.

rollingRoll wrapper halfway, and then fold left and right sides over the filling. Lay 3 shrimp halves, cut side down, with several cilantro and mint leaves along the edge of the cylinder.  Finish rolling up the summer roll.

shirmp on roll

Dip your summer roll in Hoisin Sauce or sweet chili sauce.

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Thai-inspired Barbecue Marinade for Chicken or Shrimp

barbecued chicken

My cousin’s lovely wife, Jeab, introduced me to condiments from her native Thailand, such as sweet-salty oyster sauce and pungent fish sauce. These along with the coconut milk and lemongrass can be found in Asian grocery stores and some large supermarkets. I love fooling around and combining these ingredients with others in my kitchen and herb garden to invent marinades. Frozen garlic and ginger can be found at Trader Joe’s and Berkeley Bowl.

The spices, pepper, onion, lime and herbs add a tangy spiciness to the blandness of the coconut milk. My family likes their food spicy, but feel free to cut down on the chili according to your tastes. If you are on a salt-restricted diet, cut the amount of salt, fish sauce and oyster sauce.

marinade ingredients

Ingredients: (Enough marinade for about 6 pieces of chicken and 2 dozen shrimp.)

1/2 of a 14 oz. can coconut milk (1 cup) (I use low-fat)

1 Tb oyster sauce (can substitute 1 tsp. sugar and 1 tsp. salt)

2 Tb fish sauce

2 Tb chili oil

2 Tb sesame oil

1/2 tsp salt

juice of 2 limes

3 garlic cloves, minced or 3 cubes frozen minced garlic

2 cubes frozen minced ginger or 2 tsp. fresh minced ginger, or 1 tsp. ground ginger

1 Tb yellow curry powder

¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro (you can include stems)

¼ cup coarsely chopped basil leaves

1 onion, chopped

1 chopped jalapeño pepper

1 chopped red chili pepper

Whisk liquids, curry powder, garlic and ginger in a large bowl.

liquid ingredients for marinade

Chop onion and peppers. This is the time to release your emotions and have a good cry!

Remove outer leaves of lemongrass until you reach the tender inner ones. Trim bulb and upper end of stalk where leaves are dry. Use a molcajete (or regular mortar and pestle) or a rolling-pin on the cutting board to crush the slices until softened. The citrus scent will be released. (If you can’t find lemongrass, it’s OK, you can still make the recipe without it!) Slice into 1 inch slices.

chopped lemongrass

Chop herbs, add to marinade.

Pound chicken breasts and remove excess fat. Make several slits in each breast to enable it to absorb the marinade.

scored chicken breasts

Cut each breast in half and add to marinade, coating each piece well. Marinate chicken breasts for several hours, the longer the better.

marinade

Grill on medium flame.

chicken and shrimp on the grill

If it’s raining, you can slice the breasts and cook them in the marinade, like curried chicken.

Put the shrimp in You can use leftover chicken instead of shrimp in the Shrimp-Mango Salad.

Sliced chicken also pairs well with cucumber and  snap peas. Parboil the snap peas for about 3 minutes, until they turn bright green. Cool under running water, then immerse in ice water to stop cooking. Remove stems and slice in half. Mix chicken and peas with sliced cucumber and garnish with cilantro leaves.

Chicken served with snap peas and cucumber

You can also add the leftover marinade to stir fry vegetables, such as broccoli and choy sum or baby bok choy, and mushrooms. Be careful that you only add the tender lemongrass, not the outer inedible parts!

stir fry veggies with bbq shrimp and chicken